Hanoi, homestays in Mau Chai Valley and a trip to Halong Bay, Vietnam

Thankful to have better seats than last time we had an ok sleep and drifted in and out till early morning when we arrived at the boarder. We waited for over an hour for the office to open and were finally free to be stamped out and walk across the road to enter Vietnam. Back on the bus hours passed by as hunger daunted on us.. We finally made a food stop at lunch time and devoured plates of stewed beef and rice at a garage like cafe.

Tropical forests faded away and houses became more heavily packed as we drove onto the afternoon. Traffic started to squeeze the journey and we finally arrived into Hanoi just on dark. Sharing a tuk tuk with a German couple we befriended we darted in and out of scooters and packed cars all the way to downtown area. We walked down a street shut off from traffic and found our busy hostel 'Vietnam downtown backpackers' easily.. Perhaps it was the westerners spilling from the front door with beer and novelty singlets that screamed 'backpackers'! 

We checked into a dorm and walked two doors down to a corner side cafe with '241 beer' and pho... To my disappointment the pho was maggi noodles, fatty beef, hot water and some spring onions. My expectations were that of a Vietnamese restaurant in sydney boasting flavoursome pho that warms you heart and melts your tastebuds! We went back to our rowdy hostel to book a homestay tour leaving early the next morning, fitting as much as we could into the time we had in Vietnam. We opted for Mai Chau valley over sapa as  friends had recommended it to be less touristy and more authentic! Packing our big bags into storage and just using our small day packs for the three days, we were bed bound just before 12. 

Woken at 4am to dorm antics, there was a bunch of English lads who drunkenly made it their mission to offend everyone sleeping. An American girl politely asked them to be aware that we were all asleep and he replied with 'are you a girl', 'let's get really drunk in sapa together' and telling his mates 'there's chicks in here and they have their period times 10'.. Wankers! I know it's a dorm, and I expect to be woken but not by disrespectful loudmouth arseholes. Needless to say I fell back to sleep silently smiling that we were NOT going to sapa with idiots like that. 

At 7am, a fruit bowl, pancakes and coffee set us on our way in a car to Mai Chau Valley. We collected two lovely English girls on route; Gabbi and Laura who were just staying for the one night. The drive took about 4 hours and once or of Hanoi went quite quickly. The houses and traffic started to become sparse as we started to climb rockey mountains and over through vast green luscious fields. 

We arrived to our homestay at about 12pm greeted with smiles and a spread of tasty food, enough to feed 10 of us!! Dropping our bags in our room which was a massive  vast hut set up with mattresses, mosquito nets and fans, simple but adorable. We were quick to run back to the table to devour the tastiest meal we'd had in South East Asia and it fueled us for our bike ride through the country side. 

We followed our leader around rice fields and down small dirt tracks, over tared roads and by handmade woven markets. The scenery was gorgeous and only obstructed by Sean's dodgy bike causing him to crash twice and graze his knees.. We called it quits and went home in search of first aid to stop his bloody knees from oozing down his leg. A few beers, some antiseptic cream and another delicious spread of food took away his pain and we played cards until the late hours of the eve. 

In the morning after a sweet sleep and  breaky, we split from the girls as they were heading back to Hanoi. Sean and I jumped on separate scooters and followed our guide up around some mountains for some gorgeous village views! Back down and around the road was flooding and filled with mud from last night's poring rain! I tried to follow on a small muddy track but my back wheel came out from under me and slid down.. In slow motion I fell with it! A minor cut compared to Sean's bicycle wounds so we challenged on! 

We came across a massive chopstick factory and one that exports to the entire world!!it was crazy to watch the lady's sit, sheltered only by a tin roof and swiftly in a routine manner stick shards of bamboo into a machine that chops them to size. This lady is the highest paid in the factory as it involves a little bit of skill and risk, however she still takes home no more than $4 Aussie a day. A different lady then bundles the sticks into kilo stacks and piles them high, they will then do into a large sanding machine to smoothen the edges and dry. So much in one little chopstick!! #appreciatethechopstick

We then made it to a small village which was where we had lunch! Cooked by a local family we all sat together devoured delicious crispy pork (their specialty), lots of greens and juicy garlic chicken! This was washed down with an entire jug of rice wine which they kept feeding us in shot glasses, I had to start refusing them as the weak booze soon catches up! 

We took off in the early afternoon rode for another hour back towards the village of Mai Chau, thankful to avoid the rains!! We stopped in the town, where Sean and I were sent off to hike up thousands of steps to gaze upon a gorgeous but polluted natural cave in the mountain. 

A large bunch of school children at the top stopped us from staying too long and we descended back to our bikes. Arriving home we found a new group of girls bunking with us, and all chatted about our travels until dinner arrived, then checked out a neighbouring bar for a night cap! 

Rising early again to the sound of the rooster and nature, the bright sun warned my soul as I breathed in the fresh country air. Sean and I headed off on the bikes again with a different guide and found ourselves curving in, up and around forest lined mountains until we came to a giant blue lake. We were then used on to a cute wooden ricidy boat and driven to the other side to splash amongst a natural waterfall that cascaded from high up above. The fresh, cold replenishing water was like a natural shower which contrasted the murkey, warm bath water in the lake. 

One final lunch back at the homestay and we farewelled the friendly hosts as we jumped in a car and headed the 4 hour journey back to the city. It was such a gorgeous way to see an authentic Vietnamese rural area and to take some time out of 'Rush' side of travelling. We checked back into the down town hostel then went in search of pho!! We settled on a few bad draught beers and a beef salad, booking a Halong bay tour on route back to the hostel. 

The next morning we were collected at 8am and packed into a Minivan to drive the 4 hours to reach Halong bay. We arrived at a busy dock, spilling with outspoken and hyper coloured dressed booze cruisers set for castaway island. We boarded a quaint 'junk' boat and ate a tasty enough lunch as we headed out through the rough shimmering seas bursting with stunning karst limestone peaks. Made up of more than 2000 small islands we were spinning in 360 degrees to take it all in. 

We pulled into a small lagoon area set up with rafts, where we were able to hire kayaks off. We drifted into small polluted and bunking grottos and the stench drive us straight out.. (TOURISM IS RUINING IT AS THE POACHES ARE NOT TAKING CARE OF THE WORLD HERITAGE WONDER)!! 

Back on the boat a sprinkle turned into a drizzle and led into a heavy downpour. We were happy to have seen it and did find it enchanting and beautiful. However I can imagine in a better time of the year and in the right weather could be a paradise but we were also glad to be not staying a night on the boat or on a party island with a bunch of loud, egotistic and drunk travellers.

We arrived back into Hanoi at about 7pm and jumped off the bus prematurely as we knew of a restaurant near by famous for its pho.. And finally I wand my disappointed!!!! It was all that I wanted and more! She even threw raw mince in which cooked right before my eyes! I added fresh chilli and soy and it was perfection... IT WAS PHOTASTIC!!! Back at the hostel we ran into our roomies for a beer and then caught up with the girls from Mai Chau for another.. Which led to another, until our big day send us to bed! 

We woke up to an important day, Vietnam was celebration 70 years of independence and did so with patriotic tshirts, festivities and parades throughout the city!! After checking out of our room and enjoying breakfast we headed out on a free city walking tour which took us to sites around the lake. Instead of returning Sean and I browsed some shops in the afternoon and jumped on an over night sleeper bus Hue bound after an early dinner. Happy to have fitted so much into our first few days in Vietnam we were sad to leave the bustling little downtown area but excited to explore our next stop; Hoi Ann.

Wonderfull waterfalls and wet weather, Luang Probang, Laos

With no other option we escaped a downpour of rain by jumping in an over priced tuk tuk and heading to our new guest house 'Villa Thony.' The bed was big and spread with white linen, the bathroom was average and the mans attitude was poor, he acted like we are an inconvenience to check in. Tired and hungry we walked into the city area spilling with western cafes with prices to match! The walk there by the river was peaceful and pretty enough, and the main strip was quite a pretty street, decorated with gift shops, cafes, massage places and tourist booking agents. We found a tasty croissant and coffee before making way to the Vietnamese embassy to apply for visas then home for some chill time! 

Dinner soon called and we were walked the short distance to a sweet hang out decorated in floor cushions and fairy lights. Utopia was a bustling little bar which served burnt bland pizza and cold beer. We met up with a few people we had met on the bus so chatted to them before our heads became heavy and we made tracks home in the dark. 

The next morning the heavy monsoon rain kept us under the sheets until our appetites couldn't deal with it any longer. A food cart making fresh crepes, saucing them with Nutella and banana filled the gap, then we hitched a minivan to one of the main attractions of Luang Provang, Kuang Si waterfalls. We were dropped at the gate after about a 20 minute drive, paid the entrance fee and walked up to get a glimpse of the adorable moon bear. The sleepy little bears lazed around in the warm afternoon sun doing very little, and so we went in search of the waterfall. 

It was breathtaking, made of up a cascade each level has its own natural swimming hole! The water was a murky magical green and beckoned us in for a refreshing dip. The little nibbling fish kept me on my toes and we ventured further up the falls to find a secret little spot to relax. The tourists all gathered in one picturesque area so we did our best to avoid that area. After a few hours of splashing around we had to join the minivan back to Luang Probang. 

Snacking on a burger and a tart from another French place which was super pricey I then decided on a cheap and cheerful $7 massage from Lotus spa. I was led up stairs to a dark and sticky room and made to lay face down on a sweaty smelling sheet. The massage made amends of my initial impression but the lady trying to overcharge me after left a bad taste in my mouth.

I met Sean across the road enjoying a beer and watching the world pass by we then browsed the night markets. Same same but different; overpriced and unnecessary items, and not sold by the friendliest of people. And so we ate.. It seems that we did not much else in Laos but that, and all of it was pretty tasteless and extortionate prices!  

Our last morning in Laos we woke up to the sound of our alarms due for an early waterfall venture with some bus buddies we had organised. It was just after 7am and we walked to their hostel as arranged, only getting there to find that they had cancelled on us due to a little sprinkle. Dissapointed, wet and tired.. Also refusing at this point to bare the $20 trip just the two of us, we headed to the Pilgrim cafe for some warm coffee and French toast! Finally food that made us smile, we sat in good wifi and wasted time till our Vietnamese visas were ready for pick up. 

After dropping them home and still no word from our 'bus buddies' we decided to bite the bullet and head to the other waterfall! We caught the tuk tuk to a riverbank and paid a poler to boat us to the other side. Again the waterfall was gorgeous, and still in the form of a cascade with several pools. Had we have beaten the tourists with the original plan I can imagine it would have been far more blissful but we still enjoyed the natural beauty. 

Drizzle became rain after about an hour and drove us back across the river and home. We changed out of our wet clothes and were picked up by a tuk tuk to be driven to our sleeper bus at the main station. Specifically requested that we not be down the bottom, and at the front we jumped on board hopeful. Sean's face dropped when we found our seats in the same location however the man waved us further in and we luckily scored top ready to ride on into the next leg of our journey; Vietnam.

Bangkok bites and Chiang Mai fights, Thailand.

After a long & pretty sleepless flight we touched down in Bangkok. The air was thick with humidity and the monsoon rain had just passed making the sweaty heat sticky. Following the bulk of the people we exited the airport and waited for the train! We were pleased to see the security, because of the bombing two days prior, had been amped up and they were taking appropriate precaution! After the train had been cleared we were safely ushered on board and we headed the hour journey into the city and to our stop. Assulted by the humidity we were glad to find our 'cosy guest house' a short walk from the station! 

We checked into a dorm room, freshened up a little and decided to go in search of a some food! We decided on a place back by the station for an average serve of noodles served by a colourful ladyboy still made up in last night's purple eyeshadow. Back on the train we went to an area renown for its competitive spas and massage parlours! Settling on one quickly, Sean signed into his first massage.. But I assure you no happy ending was offered! Paying a mere $10 for an hour, we finished off with a tasty woody tea and we happy to step out into the darker cooler evening! 

Hungry again we searched through the Muslim quarter for tasty street food, almost ready to give up after an hour we got lucky and found a pad Thai place! Cheap, cheerful, and damn tasty we devoured pad Thai and cold Chang beers, before heading home to bed! 

The next morning I woke up with a kick in my step.. Eager to spend the day shopping at pathumwan markets! Unfortunately in the 8 years since I had last visited.. Like most things the prices have increased and the value has decreased!! The fakes were fugly, overpriced and served with a bad attitude! We headed into the Siam area which was another big mall but I sadly left with no shopping bags! We did come across a innovative brand promotion for ponds who gave us free coffee where a picture of our faces was found on the foam!!! We went down super smoothly and we almost thought we could take on the day again! 

The hot hugging humidity sent us back indoors and we decided on a film.. Enjoying the air-condition room we watched Dark Places! Back out into the early evening and buzzing city, we went to a different area in search of night markets! Unlucky again we found only 3 food trucks down a quiet lane but were happy to sit ourselves on the plastic stools, enjoy a cold beer and devour delicious BBQ pork. 

The next morning, our last in Bangkok was spent washing clothes and organising our heavy packs! We checked out a cool area with funky food markets on the floor level in a shopping centre, and browsed some shops before the day was dusted! 

We collected our luggage and found our sleeper train in good time before its 6:30pm departure to Chiang Mai. Settling in we ordered some pricey and tasteless food and played cards until our eyes became heavy and the churning of the trains engine drifted us into our little cocoons for a restless sleep. The lights stayed lit and peeled through my eyelids like day time, as the train stopped constantly throughout the night! 

My dozing was broken by a call for coffee (which the lady had forced us into ordering the night earlier). The plastic shot glass of week coffee barely lubricated my mouth but left me awake for the last few hours of the journey approaching Chiang Mai. 

The train station was a few kilometres outside the main city square which is pretty much mapped out with a moat and ruins of a wall. We jumped on a communal taxi and were dropped closer to our accommodation. We found La Maison Verte guest house pretty easy, and were quick to offload our bags and head to a German cafe 'breakfast world' for food and fuel to wake us up! The garden was leafy and full of tourists, and no wonder; the menu was extensive and full of goodies!! We were super stoked with our feed and left ready to see some sites of Chiang Mai. After a few temples and pricing busses into Laos, we settled in a shady spot to enjoy a fresh fat chilled coconut before heading home! 

After a quick freshen up we wandered out into the early darkened hours of the eve in search of the night Saturday market, and found it easy just south of the city. Food carts and makeshift stalls lined the road, people shoulder to shoulder pushed through to find their bargain! From clothes, bags, mats, trinkets and toys it was a rainbow of colour, a chest of jewels and an easy way to send you home broke! I restrained and we found some tasty street food and a cold beer to enjoy on some super small plastic chairs! By the time was devoured that we had to run up east of the wall to make it to a boxing game we had excitingly purchased tickets to! 

We arrived in good time.. Perhaps even a little too keen I'd say as we were one of the first guests! We found a spot and ordered some over priced beers whilst the first fight took place. Disappointingly they were all quite tame, I think I was expecting intense action assisted with audience 'ooohhs and arrrhhs' but there's was none of that! Each fight took around 20 minutes and there were about 5 before the main event.. Therefore we had drunk our weight in beer before the final fighters finally took to the stage! Scotland saw it through stamina but the Thai guy had some good hits which took its toll on his opponent, claiming his local victory. With all the excitement or lack there of we headed home to bed! 

With a late start to the drizzly morning we escaped the rain an found refuge in the 'beetroot stories', which was a tasty vego choice for breakfast! We then broke away from the city walls.. Or what's left of them and ventured by an affable coffee shop.. Boasting to be Chiang Mais best! We were super satisfied with our large coffees and pushed on to the Art in Paradise exhibition! It was a fun and interactive gallery which is famous for its 3D innovative works! 

En route home we came across the Sunday market which took entire streets hostage & ran for kilometres! Of course I couldn't refuse and dragged Sean down it dodging from side to side to gaze upon the treasures! He grew hangry and we set off for food settling on street food, beers and some Msg filled curry en route home.. Evidently it was a pretty sleepless night! 

The next morning we snuck out early to find a fabulous coffee shop and enjoyed a 'Sydney standard' brekky of eggs! Turns out the edgy man was from Newcastle.. Hence why it looked like we had stepped straight into a Melbourne cafe!!! Racing against time we legged it home to collect our things and jumped on a mini bus bound for Laos! We stopped briefly at the White temple which was absolutely shining with mosaic shards of mirror and white paint! It glistened with a hidden metaphor of death & reincarnation! 

As the border approached after about 6 hours Sean and I were were shifted into a tuk tuk and taken to the border where we were dropped off! We stamped out of Thailand and then had to wait on a bus bound for the Laos border. With little communication and by all means no smile or warming welcome we were ushered into the bus and driven the 10 minutes to the other side! We then paid our money and waited.. And waited.. And waited until she yelled for collection.. It had just clocked over to 4:05pm so we were charged her overtime fee and farewelled her with a scolding stare. 

Finally stepping into Laos land were were waved to by a friendly taxi driver who took us to the main bus station where we waited for the 6:30 departure time! We were all loaded onto the sleeper bus and assigned seats. Unfortunately Sean and I drew the short card and wound up on the first mattress on the floor at the front of the bus.. Therefore we were sharing with locals who would jump on and basically rest their head on our feet! Sean was having 'personal space' issues, whilst I had no space! The bus kept stopping and loading on more locals to squat and stare at us whilst we barely slept at all. We arrived into Luang Prabang around 10am and were the first to jump off the crammed and uncomfortable sleeper bus, ready to stretch our legs & explore Laos!

London part two - An English Country Wedding Spectacular!

The next morning we were up early... For one very special reason.. Bridie and Tam's wedding!!! We caught the tube out of London central to meet up with a couple of Bridie's friends, Daisy & Dave who kindly offered us a lift for the hour & a half journey! It was a lovely drive up into the country (heading north of London to a super small town of Oundle!) With a few wrong turns we still arrived in good time, & found our rooms in the massive girls boarding house! Driving into Oundle it was a picture perfect town with cute cobbled side streets, a few pubs & happy people.. I guess it also helped that the sun was shining!! Bridie's gorgeous mum Marianne is the 'head of house' at the girls home & it was school holidays so the perfect location for a breathtaking wedding in the garden and guests conveniently could stumble upstairs to their rooms! 

Dropping off our bags in the Deputy Head of House's large room, we met a few other fellow guests & all headed down to a local pub for a drink & some sandwiches before returning home to get ready!

We spent a good hour meticulously getting ready for the grand event, & once ready, we walked down towards the stunning ceremony setting, which was amongst tall green trees & a rushing river. Signposts & fences were dotted with ballet flats, signifying Bridie's passion & current job within the Opera and pieces of Tartan representing the Scottish other half.. Tam. Not long after we sat down, the crowd was ushered to stand as the bridal party came into view. Bridie eventually approached the aisle arm in arm with her brother, & she singlehandedly took our collective breaths away! Looking effortlessly classic & drop dead gorgeous in a slightly off white simple lace dress, touched off with a hint of what's to become - her beau's Scottish heritage - a tartan bow wrapped around her tiny waist. She met Tam at the end of the Isle who was dressed in his Kilt and looking ravishing, they exchanged excited smiles as the came together. 

The 'Humanist' ceremony was short & sweet without any of the long winded religious readings, & we all agreed it was just perfect. We all even had the chance to sing along to 'Crazy Little Thing Called Love' by Queen, an inspired touch, & one that remained stuck in our heads for days! Our singing concluded & the bridal & groom parties disembarked to a round of a resounding applause & adoration. 

We followed them towards the lush green backyard of the house, for a few glasses of delicious bubbles & canapés. The guestbook was ingeniously maps of where in the world you were from, unfortunately the world did not stretch outside the UK!  Undeterred, I drew an Australia & NZ in a spare spot of ocean, & wrote a lovely note to the newly married couple. We later found out that it was where we had met Bridie or Tam, so I appropriately wrote a note around the location of Harrod's as well, the best of both worlds, literally! We made friends with a few other guests & Bridie's friendly Labrador, before the Bride & Groom returned from privately signing the vows & triumphantly strolled down a path lined with guests on both sides, dried rose petals at the ready, & as they passed, we chucked it all over them! We once again followed them down to a giant, funky teepee filled with tables on the lower lawn for the reception. 

We each sat down at our respective spots along one of the 6 large tables, & wasted no time in meeting our fellow neighbours. Everyone then got stuck into the food, a couple of delicious salads were laid out & we each passed them around whilst pouring ourselves glasses of wine. We later learnt that we were meant to hold off until the lamb arrived but by then the damage had been done, however we did still enjoy the lamb & spuds on their own. 

A few glasses of lip smackingly tasty Chardonnay in, & once our plates were cleared, the speeches begun. The best man Dave kicked things off to a great response before Bridie made a speech followed by her lovely new Husband! Marianne finished things off & after an uproar of laughs, we were ready for a dance (not to mention a wee!!) 

The traditional Highland dancing was definitely an experience, & after a few drinks it certainly was more complicated then it might've been sober! We did our very best to coordinate & move along, swinging around arm in arm with different partners, making sure we were doing it in correct order, & generally having a wonderful time! Bridie & Tam left the building at 11pm to begin their honeymoon, & sadly, it was farewell for now.

After dancing differently for each of the several various Highland songs, we were spent, so we finished up with a few more glasses of German Riesling, & being the last ones standing along with a few others including the legendary Marianne herself, we decided to call it a night. Heading back to our single bed we both assumed the spoon position, & shortly passed out.

The next morning we met familiar faces in the kitchen, helping ourselves & our sore heads to coffee & toast before calling a cab & heading for the train station in Peterborough. We made the train in good time (after we missed the one an hour earlier) & headed back to London! 

Arriving back at the tower just after lunch we tucked into some left over chocolate and cheese, showered then made tracks to Brick Lane! Having lived in London & mainly on or around the area, this was one thing that I definitely wanted to show Sean! It comes alive on a Sunday with the markets however when we arrived I was sad to see that the street sellers (cheap & cheerful street sales) had left & the vintage market had upped their prices & sprawled further down the entirety of brick lane! We grabbed a tasty wrap & some coffees & perused the busy stores until Sean couldn't bare it anymore! 

We made it back to the tower to meet Micky in the late afternoon & decided to head over the road to St Catherine's dock to wine & dine at Cafe Rouge. The three of us devoured a bottle of tasty red & steaks, followed by creme brûlée and chocolate fondant.. Definitely better than a lot of the meals we had in Paris! 

I was excited to head home & finally see Jaz (my London muma and mickys actual mum) as she only just arrived back, & just like old days her infectious smile hasn't tainted a bit!! We all sat around catching up into the late hours of the evening until calling it a night! 

Sean & I snuck out early in the morning to meet Chloe for one last coffee at Pret! Time flew & Sean couldn't get a word in edge wise, as once the two of us start we just can't stop, until she had to run off to rehearsals!!  Back to the tower we packed up our bags, loaded them into the car & headed out for lunch with Jaz, Micky, Sean & I! We went to a place under the tower bridge by the Thames which serverd up tasty meals & a beautiful bottle of white to wash it down! The sun was finally shining & it was a beautiful last supper in London with a few of my favourites! Jaz then dropped us to London bridge station so we could easily catch the train to the airport! I was sad to say goodbye to them but will hopefully see their beautiful smiling faces in Aus soon enough!! The train took a little over an hour and found our gate easily! Finally in luck the Easyjet flight to Rome wasn't delayed an before too long we were flying high! Touching down at Fiumicino airport we messaged our air BnB hosts and promptly picked us up and took us back to their house only a few kilometres from the plane station! 

The elderly couple were adorable and very welcoming of us into their little suburban home! Hungry for dinner we wasted no time in wandering around to find a tasty Japanese restaurant, then back home for an early night. After a much needed sleep in & complimentary breaky.. (Damn those cakey like brioches) we were dropped back at the airport & found our Turkish airlines flight to Bangkok! Excited for our last leg of the journey we strapped ourselves in & took off.. Ready for South East Asia!!